DINING REVIEW: Nawlins in Falcon serves a mean jambalaya

It's hard to find good things that came out of Hurricane Katrina.

But if you live in Falcon, Nawlins Bar B Q & Cajun Cuisine is one of them. The storm drove Louisiana native and New Orleans cook Martin Allred out of the Big Easy to this high-plains crossroads, where his restaurant Nawlins turns out very good, authentic New Orleans cuisine.

Allred learned how to whip up a lot of dishes from his stepfather, the legendary Cajun fiddler Allen Fontenot. He does not cut corners, and the results are delicious.

You can immediately see it in his Creole-style jambalaya ($10 at dinner), which sings with a tangy tomato base, instead of a traditional brown roux, and the New Orleans trinity of onion, celery and green pepper. Big chunks of smoked chicken and smoky sausage swim in the perfectly cooked rice. Often ordering this dish brings a soupy mush. Here, it is divine.

Nawlins is worth a visit just for the sausage, handmade at tiny Poche's Market in the Cajun town of Breaux Bridge, La.

The sausage platter is laden with huge wheels of andouille, 2 inches across and packed chunky with coarse-ground pork and a delicious blend of red pepper, brown sugar, garlic and paprika.

The plate has two other spicy links, including the hot and heavily smoked chaurice, flecked inside with chives.

On the side, a link of Poche's famous boudin stuffed with rice, pork, liver, onions and spices, is a truly authentic treat.

The restaurant also has a smattering of po' boy sandwiches and breakfast beignets that I didn't get to try. Prices are lower at breakfast and lunch.

Nawlins also does barbecue - all slow smoked with pecan wood.

I tried a heaping BBQ Sampler ($16). The ribs have a dry rub so thick and laden with paprika that they look upholstered in red velvet.

The pulled pork (co-owner Jackie Hine's favorite) is moist and tender. Though not very smoky or flavorful, it is a nice match for the three kinds of barbecue sauce (sweet, hot and standard) on every table.

The sampler comes with slaw and beans, which are both OK but not great, and tasty jalapeño hush puppies.

The only dog on the barbecue plate is the brisket. When we ordered it, it looked as though it had been pre-sliced long before, then rewarmed for our plate.

Like any good Southern-themed restaurant, Nawlins serves alligator. Specifically, Nawlin's has tenderized alligator tail meat, slaked in a great seasoned cornmeal crust and flash-fried. Alligator tastes a lot like rattlesnake or guinea pig, which is to say, "tastes like chicken." You can get your gator solo or as part of the intimidating Swamp Platter ($23) - a deep-fried Mardi Gras mound of alligator, soft-shell crab, catfish and frog legs - which, the owner says, is the most popular dish. (I'm skeptical.)

Like its namesake city, Nawlins has some real problems if you go beyond the good food. The décor is strip mall stark with sallow fluorescent lighting and naked tables that hardly scream "come spend $23-a-plate on dinner."

Most of the business at night is in the adjoining bar, and on poker nights (Tuesdays and Thursdays), it spills its Falcon ex-urban high-plains weirdness all over the dining room.

The service on one night we visited was deplorable. The server did not know the menu, forgot our side salads, and delivered an appetizer of blackened shrimp last instead of first. She was new, and other servers are much better, but it is no excuse.

Nawlins plans to open a new location on Powers this summer. Let's hope it can pair the authentic cuisine with a more inviting experience.

Nawlins Bar BQ & Cajun Cuisine

*** (Good stuff from swamps)

Address: 7685 McLaughlin Road, Suite 150, Falcon
Contact: 494-8558, nawlinsbarbq.com
Hours: 8 a.m.-8:30 p.m. daily
Entrees: $9-$23
Vegetarian: Salads
Alcohol: Full bar
Credit cards: Yes