The localvore challenge

Oh, to have bunches of fresh basil lying around the kitchen. That heady aroma. That distinct, piney, minty flavor that pairs so well with tomatoes and plays lead actor in pesto.

This, however, is not the time of year for basil, a denizen of the summer garden. If you want fresh basil in winter and spring, your best option is to buy one of those pricey packages in the produce department that hold maybe four puny, sad-looking leaves.

But if Richard Sandquist has his way, bushy bunches of fresh basil will be a yearround offering in southern Colorado, even in the dead of winter.

Sandquist is owner of Hydro-Pure Growers, a hydroponic-greenhouse operation near Pueblo, and he introduced live basil plants to King Soopers' produce departments last month. You can't miss them: The plants are about a foot tall and brimming with huge, fragrant leaves of bright-green basil.

It's part of his mission to provide Colorado with sustainable food year-round, and it plays right into the hands (and mouths) of "localvores" - people who try to eat food produced no more than 100 miles from where they live.

The localvore movement has exploded in recent years, thanks to a number of popular books on the subject, coupled with the recent recalls of meat, spinach and other foods. Its practitioners demand to know more about where their food comes from, how it's been grown and who the faces are behind the food.

"The need for more natural and organic regional growers and producers is more acute today due to strong consumer demand," said Jen Marshall of the Boulder-based Fresh Ideas Group, a public relations firm, who organized the second Whole Foods Market Local Grower and Producer Seminar in Denver in mid-February.

Michele Mukatis, who owns Cultivate Health, a local business focused on nutrition consultation, believes eating locally grown food is good for several reasons.

"First it gives you a sense of place," she said in an e-mail. "You really get to know where you live in a different way when you see what the land will bear (or not) through each season."

She also said that eating locally helps small farmers stay in business and provides more flavor and nutrients for consumers.

"Studies have shown that produce loses nutrients after it's picked," she said. "The sooner you eat it, the more nutritional bang you get for your buck."

But being a localvore in Colorado can be a tall order. The state has a relatively short growing season compared with agricultural giants such as California. Marshall realizes that fresh local produce is hard to come by in winter, but she's optimistic that hydroponicgreenhouse operations such as Sandquist's can beef up year-round supplies.

It's no guarantee, though. When Sandquist was getting his greenhouse business off the ground three years ago, Colorado greenhouses represented the most acres of tomatoes than any other state.

"That has changed in the last couple of years," says Frank Stonaker, specialty crop program coordinator for Colorado State University in Fort Collins. "Right now there's a downturn with some of that business going to Mexico."

It's been a journey for Sandquist to keep living the dream of providing Colorado with sustainable food year-round. He started out growing gourmet lettuce in one Pueblo greenhouse about three years ago. He was pretty much a oneman show, maintaining and growing the lettuces, then marketing and delivering his product.

"I got burned out," he says.

He took a few months off to re-evaluate his business. During that time, he met the owners of a group of greenhouses in Vineland and Colorado City who had been supplying potatoes to Frito-Lay for potato chips.

"With people becoming more health conscious, the potato chip business was sagging," he says. "They were looking to diversify their business. It was a perfect match for me. They could grow the lettuces, and I could concentrate on the marketing."

Now, along with the lettuce, he's got his basil plants.

"I had been trying to get the basil going in my greenhouse, but it wasn't hot enough," Sandquist says. "One of the greenhouses in Colorado City was just ideal."

The basil costs $3.99 and is sold in plastic sleeves similar to those that envelop cut flowers. In fact, you handle the basil plant pretty much as you would cut flowers.

"The plants have their root systems still attached," Sandquist says. "Just put them in a glass container like you would cut flowers and add water to keep the roots wet. Put the container in a sunny window, and enjoy fresh basil for up to two weeks."

Basil is not enough to sustain an avid localvore, but CSU's Stonaker says that there could be more crops if greenhouse farming takes off.

"The potential for greenhouse farming in Colorado is great," Stonaker says. "However, high fuel costs is making it difficult right now. I know there's a lot of interest in local produce year-round, and that may drive more small farmers to try it."

CONNECT TO FOOD GROWN IN REGION

Front Range localvores who need help finding sources for local foods have a new helper.

Starting this month, Edible Communities will add Edible Front Range magazine to its lineup of about three dozen regional magazines, including Edible Boston, Edible Austin, Edible Cape Cod, Edible Jersey and Edible Lowcountry.

"Our mission is to celebrate the abundance of local, seasonal food in Denver, Boulder, Fort Collins, Colorado Springs and towns in between," said Lynne Eppel, the Boulderbased magazine's publisher and editor.

Edible Communities was started in response to the localvore movement that has sprouted nationwide. The for-profit, memberdriven corporation wants to transform the way communities shop for, cook, eat and relate to the food grown and produced in local regions.

High value is placed on local, seasonal, authentic foods and culinary traditions.

In addition to the magazines, Edible Communities carries out its mission through its Web site and events.

For more information about Edible communities, or to subscribe to the Front Range magazine, go to www.ediblefrontrange.com. The cost is $28 for four issues.
TERESA J. FARNEY, THE GAZETTE

COMMUNITY SUPPORTED AGRICULTURE

A popular way to support local farmers and keep the pledge of being a localvore is to join a Community Supported Agriculture program, commonly known as a CSA. Basically, you give a preseason payment to participating farms for a share of the food they grow. During the harvest season, you receive your weekly allotment. Most farms offer a range of share options; check the Web sites or call for information. Some nearby Colorado CSA programs:

Country Roots Farm, Pueblo
1-719-948-2206 organicminds@earthlink.net  www.countryrootsfarm.com  

DeLaney Community Farm, Denver
1-303-292-9900 dirt@dug.org  www.dug.org/farm.asp  

Granata Farms, Denver
1-303-321-2735 ecgranat@ouray.cudenver.edu

Grant Family Farms, Wellington
1-970-568-7654 www.grantfarms.com
Will start delivery service to Colorado Springs this summer

• For other Colorado farms, check out www.localsustainability.net, http://gardens.com or www.localharvest.org.

JUMBO SHRIMP WITH BASIL-AND-MINT PESTO
Yield: 6 servings

3/4 cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1 clove garlic
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly grated
Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 pounds uncooked jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Procedure:
1. Blend mint, basil, pine nuts and garlic in food processor until finely chopped. With machine running, gradually add olive oil, processing until well blended. Transfer pesto to medium bowl. Stir in Parmesan cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Toss shrimp with extra-virgin olive oil in large bowl to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss again.

3. Heat heavy large skillet over high heat. Working in 2 batches, add shrimp and sauté until just cooked through, about 3 minutes. Toss shrimp with enough pesto to coat. Transfer shrimp to platter and serve.

Source: Giada De Laurentiis, Food Network

CAPRESE SALAD
Yield: 4-6 servings

3 vine-ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced 1/4-inch thick
20-30 leaves (about 1 bunch) fresh basil
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Coarse salt and pepper, to taste

Procedure:
1. Layer alternating slices of tomatoes and mozzarella, adding a basil leaf between each, on large, shallow platter.

2. Drizzle salad with extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Source: Rachael Ray, Food Network

BASIL PESTO
Yield: 1 cup

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves
2 cloves garlic
1/4 cup pine nuts
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese

Cook's note: If using immediately, add all the oil and pulse until smooth. Transfer pesto to large serving bowl and mix in cheese.

Procedure:
1. Combine basil, garlic and pine nuts in food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add 1/2 cup oil and process until fully incorporated and smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. If freezing, transfer to air-tight container and drizzle remaining oil over top. Freeze up to 3 months. Thaw and stir in cheese.

Source: Food Network