High season for high water

It’s high season for high water on the Arkansas River. That means whitewater, and plenty of it, all the way from Leadville to Pueblo.

The most popular stretch on the Ark is Browns Canyon, beginning at either Fisherman’s Bridge or Ruby Mountain, just outside of Nathrop, running roughly or Bridge.

It’s a Class III run — on a scale of I (mild) to V (wild) — meaning lots of whitewater action, but nothing so frightening you’ll be afraid to get in the bathtub later.

We asked Stew Pappenfort, senior ranger for the Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area, for a rundown on what to expect from the canyon. Pappenfort has worked on the river as a guide and ranger for 31 years. He’s run Browns hundreds of times, so he’s learned the river’s tricks. Sometimes the hard way.

“I’m very intimate with a lot of the rocks in Browns,” Pappenfort says.

This is the time to visit, he adds. The water is near its peak, but the crowds of thrill-seekers from out of state haven’t clogged the canyon.

Canyon Doors/Pinball

After a mile or two of small, splashy rapids, floaters enter the canyon and hit the real whitewater.

Canyon Doors is a series of three progressively bigger drops, with the third forming a good-size wave that can flip rafts at high water.

“It’s kind of a long, narrow chute that runs into a fairly good-sized hydraulic,” Pappenfort says. “The hydraulic cannot be totally avoided, but it can be skirted on river right.”

Immediately after Canyon Doors, the Arkansas twists through a series of rocks and holes that form the Pinball rapid.

Zoom Flume

A sharp left turn with a beach on either flank is followed by a right turn and a horizon line where the river narrows and drops steeply into the biggest rapid in the canyon. Pull onto the beach on the left to scout — if you’ve entered the straightaway above the drop, it’s probably too late.

Fortunately, the rapid is straightforward: Punch the waves and skirt the holes, staying roughly left of center. Watch out for Pyramid Rock two-thirds of the way down in the center — it can snag a raft.

And remember to smile for the cameras — commercial photographers snap pictures of every boater, which you can view (and buy) on the Internet later.

Big Drop

A few more turns brings you to a long straightaway, followed by a right-hand turn filled with a crashing wave train. Several large holes line the left bank of the rapid.

Staircase

A series of seven progressively bigger drops form this rapid. A tongue of water in the center of each leads to a wave at the bottom. The last three “steps” are the biggest, and the final step can get very large indeed at high water.

Widowmaker

After Staircase lies Widowmaker. Similar to Pinball, boaters need to skirt boulders and holes, notably a swirling whirlpool called the Toilet Bowl.

Raft Ripper

Next up is a series of sharp rocks that can snag rafts at high water. Not usually a problem for kayakers or rafts at lower water, start at the upper right and work your way to the lower left.

Graveyard

A smaller version of Pinball and Widowmaker, this Class II to Class III boulder garden leads to Hecla Junction, one of the two take-outs for Browns. Many trips end the day here, others continue to Stone Bridge.

Seidel’s Suckhole

The evocatively titled Suckhole is a tricky beast famous for flipping rafts. Three-quarters of a mile past Hecla, some landing spots on the right and a series of paths leading up the rocks will warn you of the rapid ahead.

A lateral wave at the top-left feeds boaters straight into a crashing wave at the bottom. Rafters usually start at the top left, bouncing off the lateral wave to the right so they can skirt the lower hole.

“It’s quite a show when (the lower hole) is at sticky levels,” Pappenfort says. “It’s fairly challenging. I’ve probably swam there as much as anywhere on the river.”

Fortunately, boaters often stop to watch the carnage and are happy to pull swimmers out of the drink.

Twin Falls

Also known as Double Drop, this series of crashing waves is just a quarter-mile downstream from Seidel’s.

It’s a straight shot down the middle and the last major rapid on the run. No problem, as long as Seidel’s didn’t separate you from your boat.

“If you’re swimming out of Seidel’s, you definitely don’t want to swim through Twin Falls,” Pappenfort says.

A couple miles of mild rapids lead paddlers to Stone Bridge (beware: the low bridge is impassable at very high water), and the takeout just past the bridge.

IT’S FIBARK TIME

This weekend is the annual FIBArk whitewater festival in Salida. The funny-looking name comes from “First In Boating on the Arkansas.” The festival started as a whitewater canoe race from Salida to Cañon City in 1949 and it’s been growing ever since.

Events include a 26-mile downriver race, kayak slalom racing, a kayak rodeo, and the Hooligan race, featuring crazy crafts and even crazier paddlers making their way through Salida’s whitewater park. There’s also live music, food and other entertainment.

Go to fibark.com for a complete schedule.