ROAD TRIP: Past, present meet in Chaffee County

The most difficult aspect of road-tripping to Chaffee County in the summer is letting go.

The nearer I was to the Collegiate Peaks and Arkansas River headwaters, the easier it was to let intrusive thoughts — of pressing emails, voice mails and whether I’d let the dog out again before I left — fly out the window into the fresh mountain air.

At first, I fought it.

Eventually, I surrendered.

I became so relaxed that by the time I  passed the luxury home-supply stores on the county’s outskirts, I didn’t even feel a twinge of jealousy.

Good for them, I thought. And that’s saying something.

Truth be told, the only distressing sights in Chaffee County are the occasional sign warning of falling rock, a furry roadkill victim or stranded motorist. (Though it’s more likely that he’s pulled over to fish or snap a picture than to fix a flat.)

If you’re looking for affordable family fun within a couple hours’ drive, look no further than Buena Vista, Salida and Nathrop. This installment of GO! Roadtrip highlights a few activities suitable for the whole family — everyone from the young at heart with pets in tow to the truly young with picky appetites and short attention spans.

SALIDA

TO DO

Salida Hot Springs and Aquatic Center
410 W. RAINBOW BLVD. (U.S. HIGHWAY 50),  1-719-539-6738, WWW.SALIDAPOOL.COM
$11 adults, $5 children 6-17, $3 younger children
The perfect compromise for adults who enjoy hot springs and kids who eventually become bored with them. Features Colorado’s largest indoor hot springs pool, with water piped in from Poncha Pass. Also features a lap pool, diving well, zero-entry leisure pool and private hot baths. Forgot to bring your gear? The center has a broad selection of bathing suits, water toys, fins and underwater MP3 players for sale.

Salida Museum
406 W. U.S. HIGHWAY 50; 1-719-539-7483,  WWW.SALIDAMUSEUM.ORG
$3 adults, $1.50 ages 12-17, $1 ages 6-11, younger children free. The perfect stop for history buffs wishing to learn more about the town and area. Items on display include Wild West-era artifacts, vintage household furnishings, mineral samples and historical photographs

EAT

The Fritz
113 E. SACKETT ST., 1-719-539-0364
The Fritz says it can’t decide if it’s a gastro pub, Americana bistro or global café — and I can’t either. Open daily from 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. and conveniently located downtown, The Fritz serves up affordable favorites with a twist: mac and cheese with bacon, leeks and provolone; pork and shells pasta; spicy vegetarian stir-fry quinoa; salads; and burgers, to name a few. Plates come in three sizes — small, medium and kid — and most cost less than $10 (the one exception being Steak Fritz, served with grilled onions, fries and hollandaise for $13.50). Desserts are simple favorites: chocolate chip cookies and milk ($2.50) and ice cream with hot apple compote ($3). Full-service bar available.

Fiesta Mexicana
1220 E. U.S. HIGHWAY 50, 1-719-539-5203
You might recognize the name if you frequent Woodland Park — a Fiesta Mexicana is located there as well. This authentic Mexican eatery boasts a massive menu featuring chicken, beef and seafood entrees as well as burritos, enchiladas and tostadas ($8.99 to $19.99). Those jonesing for cuisine “north of the border” will find the only exceptions — buffalo wings and potato skins — on their appetizer menu ($7.99 each). Sinfully decadent desserts include flan and deep-fried ice cream and cheesecake ($3.99-$4.99)

STAY
Mountain Goat Lodge
9582 U.S. HIGHWAY 285, 1-719-539-7173,  WWW.SALIDABEDANDBREAKFAST.COM
Localvores and pet lovers alike will find the Mountain Goat Lodge a comfortable fit. Suites start at $105 a night (plus an extra $10 per dog, which includes access to a dog bed) and includes free long-distance calls, flat-screen TVs with HBO and Showtime, queen-size log-frame beds, balconies and mountain views. Dogs are provided with a free goodie bag upon arrival. An outdoor kennel is available for guests wishing to leave their dogs while playing tourist. Complimentary breakfast, made with farm-fresh local ingredients like handcrafted goat cheese, is served each morning, and a 4-6 p.m. daily happy hour includes complimentary snacks. Inquire about the cheesemaking and goat-training seminars, as well as the mystery-theater program.

Tudor Rose Bed & Breakfast and Chalets
6720 COUNTY ROAD 104, 1-719-539-2002,  WWW.THETUDORROSE.COM
Perfect for those seeking affordable B&B lodging with the option of overnight horse stabling ($10.50 a night, hay included). Rooms start at $90 a night (suites at $139) and feature free Wi-Fi, TVs with DVD players, bath robes and minifridges. Chalets, which sleep up to six, start at $200 a night for two guests ($25 for each additional guest) and feature kitchens, outdoor grills and cookware. One ADA-compatible cabin available. Grounds include a large commons area, shaded swings, a hiking trail, waterfall and hot tub. Just minutes from downtown Salida.

BUENA VISTA/NATHROP

TO DO

St. Elmo
25865 COUNTY ROAD 162, NATHROP; 1-719-395-2117, WWW.ST-ELMO.COM
Perhaps Colorado’s best-preserved ghost town, this hidden gem is on the National Register of Historic Places. Though this late-19th century mining town was all but abandoned in the 1920s, m Many of its structures remain and can be viewed from outside. The restored schoolhouse is open to visitors during summer (9 a.m.-6 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays). The privately owned general store, open May through September, features an unexpectedly diverse array of antiques, unique souvenirs and snacks, including ice cream. A few coins will buy you a small bag of feed you can use to lure chipmunks, the town’s only permanent residents, near you or even into your hand. (Though, to give you a fair warning, they might pee on you.).

Buena Vista Heritage Museum
506 E. MAIN ST., BUENA VISTA; 1-719-395-8458, WWW.BUENAVISTAHERITAGE.ORG
$5 adults, $1 youth, $10 family
Housed in the old Chaffee County Courthouse, this quaint museum offers two floors of eclectic antiques chock-full of local significance, including a black wedding dress once worn by one local and a pair of boots allegedly worn by another while roping a cougar. Browse old Montgomery Ward catalogs and school newspapers while sitting at authentic wooden school desks in the mock schoolroom, or peruse the rocks, minerals and gemstones on display in the commerce and industry room.

The Roc Doc
17897 U.S. HIGHWAY 285, NATHROP; 1-719-539-2019, WWW.THEROCKDOC.NET
Feeling lucky? The Roc Doc offers prospecting maps, equipment and classes as well as gifts and mineral specimens for those who prefer a safer return on their buck. The shop claims to be the largest of its kind in the Rockies and boasts an on-site geological engineer available to help identify finds and offer advice.

EAT
Bongo Billy’s
713 S. Highway 24, Buena Vista; 719-385-2634
www.BongoBillysCafe.com
If you must check-in with the outside world and require wi-fi to do so, Bongo Billy’s has one of the best signals in town — and it’s free. Enjoy a variety of specialty coffees (Café Milky Way or Café Almond Joy sound good?) starting at $1.60 or a other drinks like teas, smoothies, shakes and Italian sodas starting at $1.25. Light breakfast and lunch fare (salads, sandwiches, quiches, muffins and the like) and decadent desserts (bread pudding with whiskey sauce or sour-cream date bars, anyone?) are also available — eat them inside or on the outdoor deck. Expect to dine for around $10 unless you really get carried away. (It’s pretty easy to do.)

Punky’s
421 E. Main St., Buena Vista; 719-395-2238
www.PunkysDiner.com
Fun, affordable family dining in a ’50s-era malt shop setting. Punky’s serves typical American fare (a variety of hamburgers, chicken strips, barbecue items, subs, wraps and salads) and desserts, including 16 flavors of hand-packed ice cream and cheesecake on a stick. Expect to dine for $15 or under, depending on your appetite; kids’ meals available for $4 each (12 and under only). Visa and MasterCard accepted; $5 minimum.


STAY
Thunder Lodge
207 Brookdale Ave., Buena Vista; 719-395-2245
www.ThunderLodge.com
If you’re fond of log-cabins, look no farther: Thunder Lodge features eight surrounding a grassy central courtyard. Both one- and two-bedroom cabins feature sleeper sofas perfect for children, fully equipped kitchens, cable TV and free wi-fi. Summer rates start at $150 a night for two adults; additional guests 13 and older are an extra $7.50 each. Pets allowed (advanced notice required).

ALL THE REST
Interested in fly fishing, horseback riding, rafting and other activities? Visit www.SalidaChamber.org and www.BuenaVistaColorado.org for additional attractions, restaurants, hotels and recreational opportunities.

CALENDAR
Through Sunday: FIBArk festival, Salida. Live music, mountain biking, karaoke competition, carnival, raft rodeo, 5K and 10K runs and more. More information: www.FIBArk.com.
July 1: Air Force Academy Band concert, Riverside Park, Salida, 7-8:30 p.m. Free; take a lawn chair.
July 2: Madams of Central Colorado performance, Buena Vista Heritage Museum, 7 p.m. Doors open 6:30 p.m. $15 general admission. Details: 1-719-395-8458.
July 4: Independence Weekend, Riverside Park, Salida, all day. Potato sack races, balloon toss, face painting and more. Parade at 4 p.m. Live music 7-9:30 p.m.
Aug. 20-21: King Boletus Mushroom Festival, American Legion Hall, Buena Vista. Learn to find and identify mushrooms. Lunch and wine-and-cheese reception included on Saturday. $80 per person. Details: 1-719-395-8458 or www.BuenaVistaHeritage.org.
Sept. 10: Turner Farm Apple Fest, Buena Vista, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Festivities include apple picking and pressing, croquet, horseshoes and a cake walk. More information: www.BuenaVistaHeritage.org.