One glance at Jake and Telly's menu tells you that Jake and Telly Topakas, the Greek-American brothers who own this Old Colorado City institution, aren't out to do just another gyro joint.

Oven roasted lamb shank with a tangy roasted tomato glaze sits next to bone-in pork loin marinated in lemon and oregano. Of course, you can order a traditional gyro or a plate of olives and feta cheese. But Jake and Telly also offer wild Sockeye salmon with dill and capers, or pork medallions in a sweet white wine.

Which is to say, this is not your average Greek.

Jake and Telly's started as a bar with a few food items in 1997 and has grown more and more sophisticated, to the point where the brothers now regularly win The Gazette's Best Greek award, get two stars in the Mobil Travel Guide and host four-course wine dinners.

Call it Greek chic.

Even so, it is best to navigate the menu with caution. While no dish even approaches bad, some are better values than others.

The best way to get acquainted with the place is to grab a spot on the long, shady balcony, which overlooks Colorado Avenue, and order the Mixed Mezze ($15), a platter strewn with rich, crispy spinach spanakopita, Greek meatballs in a tangy lamb and roasted tomato sauce, tender grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice, savory gyro meat, toasted pita bread, spicy humus and real, delicious Greek olives. One plate could easily sate two.

The Kalamari ($11) - bright, fresh rings of squid swimming with a school of capers, olives, spinach and onions in a tangy tomato and wine broth - is so excellent that I found myself slurping the broth long after the squid was gone.

I have to admit, I was too embarrassed to order the Saganaki ($10) - a plate of mild sheep's milk cheese, delivered to the table on fire by a server who then claps and yells "OPAH!" But, judging by how many tables order it, it must be very tasty.

Nibblers would be wise to pair the platter with one of a long list of good Greek wines the brothers Topakas offer. If the Aegean varietals seem mystifying (Assyrtico anyone?), don't worry, the terrific servers will never steer you wrong.

Staying for a full dinner brings a leisurely parade of delights. The slow-roasted lamb shank ($22) is so tender you don't need a knife; it's covered in a tangy tomato slather from an old family recipe.

The fish of the day (we had halibut) was perfectly moist and flaky, perched on a column of seasoned rice and nicely sautéed squash.

The Souvlaki ($19) - simple pork tenderloin skewers in a zesty marinade - were expertly cooked and delicious, but they hint at the one thing at Jake and Telly's that can stick in diners' craws. Some of the meals feel inexplicably pricey. Should pork skewers with simple rice and sautéed veggies cost $20?

I had the same question for the very good, but not really fancy, Chicken Mavrodaphne ($19) - a pan-fried chicken breast in a sweet Greek wine sauce over pasta. It's good, but it's pasta and chicken. Charge $15. Anyone showing up for lunch hoping to find the dish discounted will be disappointed.

Lunch does have a number of values, including a too-big-for-its-own-plate Greek salad ($7) and a busting-out-of-its-own-pita Gyro ($9).

Desserts too, are delicious and homemade. The chocolate mousse ($6) is the real, deep, dark, deal. The best thing on the menu might be saragli, Greek nut roll. It's like a rolled up cousin of baklava.

The restaurant has a strong following of regulars, most of whom have probably figured out the answer to the central question: Where have the Topakas truly raised the bar on local Greek cuisine, and where have they just raised the price?

Jake and Telly's
**** (Greek chic)

Address: 2616 West Colorado Ave.
Contact: 633-0406, greekdining.com
Hours: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Monday - Thursday; 1 a.m. - 11 p.m. Friday - Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday
Entrees: $9 - $22
Vegetarian: Plenty
Alcohol: Full bar and substantial wine list
Credit cards: Yes