AROUND THE HOUSE: Ready your house if you leave for winter

Going away this winter? Here are some close-the-house-down tips:

• Turn off the main water valve in the basement.

• Open hot and cold faucets in the lowest sink to relieve the pressure.

• Turn off the water heater — including the pilot. Then lift up the pressure relief valve lever to drain a few quarts of water from the tank.

• Evacuate the toilet bowls with a large car washing sponge — then stuff a grocery bag in the hole; turn off the little water valve on each.

• It’s not a good idea to turn the heat off. You risk freeze-ups inside the walls, so set the thermostat no lower than 55 degrees.

• Open sink cabinet doors which are on exterior walls.

• Lift up the little shutoff lever in the ice maker.

• Plug a couple of lamps into random ON-OFF timers.

• Unplug the garage door opener.

• Tune in a talk radio station and turn up the volume.

• Leave blinds partly open so the police can see inside.

Finally, enjoy your “snow bird” time away. See you in the spring.


Dear Ken: I have an old gas log insert in an old fireplace. It won’t light up. A service call is quite expensive. Any other ideas?
Carole

You may not have waited long enough. There’s probably a big chunk of air in the gas piping. Hold the pilot knob in until you smell a little gas; that means that the air is gone. Wait about 5 minutes for the gas to dissipate from the fireplace, then light the pilot as you normally would. While you’re in there, shine a flashlight up on to the damper. You should see a small clamp that keeps it from closing all the way. That lets the fumes escape from the ever-burning pilot light. If there’s none there, you’ll need to add it. Finally, in most places, it’s a code requirement that you have a set of glass doors in place to out the cold air.


Dear Ken: I have a bonus room that’s very cold. Would it help to add more wall insulation inside the attic spaces? What else can I do?
Paul

It’s usually a matter of air flow — not insulation. You could add some, but, since heat rises to the ceiling, the impact will be minimal. Make sure that the door to this space is cut off an inch-and-a-quarter or so to let the heat circulate back to the furnace. Otherwise, when the door is closed, you simply pressurize the space with a little warm air that just sits there and gradually cools down. Another alternative is to add a transfer grille over the door. This works well, but you do lose some privacy.

Ask an HVAC contractor if it’s possible to add an in-line duct booster fan. It will force more heat into that cold room. They’re relatively inexpensive, considering how great they work. Finally, make sure the room has good window coverings, like cellular shades.


Dear Ken: I have an old microwave — probably from the ’70s Once in awhile, there’s a spark inside. Should I be worried?
Darlene

I think it’s time to kiss your old friend goodbye. The magnetron is probably failing and may quit working soon. Also, a microwave this old may be leaking radiation. The door, hinges and latch gradually loosen up and allow microwaves to escape. So, for now — just like we told our kids about TV watching — stand back a foot or so when you use it.

Your old microwave undoubtedly cost hundreds of (’70s) dollars, but now look how affordable they’ve become! Even the above-the-stove varieties, which were quite expensive just a few years ago, are now offered at “give away” prices.

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Former homebuilder Ken Moon is the owner of Colorado Home Inspectors and a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors. Hear him Saturdays at 9 a.m. on KRDO 1240 AM and 105.5 FM. Reach him at www.aroundthehouse.com.