THE WINE GUY: Northern italy offers value wines for adventurous palates

Italy is a veritable bootful of wine values. From the Alps to Sicily, what is particularly special is that Italy offers so many native varieties.

American consumers with any sense of adventure will find many unique, intriguing and rewarding tastes.

Everyday drinking
In the northwest, Piedmont holds an exalted position as the source of the regal Barolo and Barbaresco.

But the soft, gulpable, low-tannin dolcetto and high-acid, mouth-filling, moderate-tannin barbera, make fine everyday wines. Before or after dinner, Moscato d’Asti (muscat grape) is marvelously refreshing — light, spritzy, slightly-to-fairly sweet and very low alcohol (around 5 percent).

• 2006 Boroli Dolcetto d’Alba “Madonna di Como” ($17)
• 2007 Damilano Barbera d’Alba ($18)
• 2007 Marchesi di Gresy Moscato d’Asti ($16)

Distinctive flavors
In the northeast lies the Veneto, surrounding Verona, Vicenza, and Padua. The signature white is the lemony, almond-tinged Soave (garganega grape). The characteristic red is Valpolicella (corvina and rondinella) with its tart cherry flavor and slightly bitter finish.

• 2007 Inama Soave Classico ($17)
• 2007 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio Valpolicella “Nanfire” ($13)
• 2005 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso “Monte Garbi” ($20)

Cool-clime whites
In the shadow of the Dolomites mountains, bordered by Austria and Slovenia, the farthest northeast region, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, is known best for clean, fresh, fruity white wines, including some of the best Pinot Grigio in the world.

Don’t hesitate, though, to try wines from the many other white grapes — including friulano, which to me tastes similar to sauvignon blanc.

• 2007 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Dolomiti ($16)
• 2007 Marco Felluga Friulano Collio ($20)
• 2007 Riff Pinot Grigio delle Venezia ($12)
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Rich Mauro has been writing about wine since 1995. He is a policy analyst for the Denver Regional Council of Governments.
Reach him at rich@rmpeoplespalate.com or Box 1779, Colorado Springs 80901.