Sweet, aromatic Meyer lemons are like candy for eyes and mouth

If Cezanne had lived not in France but in Southern California, his still lifes probably would have overflowed with Meyer lemons. Plump, smoothskinned, an unmistakable dark yellow — canary yellow, the color of egg yolks or the sun at noon — they’re sweeter than other lemons, with an intoxicating aroma that has hints of honey and thyme.

A cross between a lemon and a sweet orange, imported to the U.S. from China 100 years ago by the man whose name they bear, Frank Meyer, the Meyer lemon is an addictive fruit.

With sweeter juice, a thinner peel, less acid and a more floral scent (and taste) than other lemon varieties, Meyers are as much fun to cook with as they would be to paint.

In fact, we’re counting the ways. High on the list are a few fantastic recipes. Slide slices of Meyer lemons under the skin of a pair of Cornish game hens, strew the roasting pan with more, then toss in some fennel and olives. (Recipes on Food 6.)

Or try chef Marcus Samuelsson’s method of quick-preserving citrus peels and use the result — tart, salty and utterly lemony — in a fantastically colorful dish of spicy “piri piri” shrimp and black rice.

The Meyer lemon season goes into spring. If you can’t find them at your basic grocery store, check specialty stores such as Whole Foods.

MEYER LEMON RECIPES

SHRIMP PIRI PIRI WITH QUICK-PRESERVED MEYER LEMONS

Yield: 4 servings

QUICK-PRESERVED MEYER LEMONS:

- 6 Meyer lemons

- 1/4 cup kosher salt

- 1/4 cup sugar

FOR SHRIMP PIRI PIRI:

- 1 cup black rice (forbidden rice)

- 4 red jalapeño chiles, seeded, ribs removed and chopped

- 2 green jalapeño chiles, seeded, ribs removed and chopped

- 2 serrano chiles, seeded, ribs removed and chopped

- 2 cloves garlic

- 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, plus additional for garnish

- 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley

- Juice of 1 Meyer lemon

- 1 recipe quick-preserved Meyer lemon peel, julienned, divided 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

- 1 pound medium shrimp, tail-on, peeled and deveined

- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

- Additional chopped cilantro for garnish

Procedure for quick-preserved Meyer lemons:

1. Using vegetable peeler, peel lemons, trying to keep away from white pith. (If necessary, scrape any pith away from peels with small knife.) Squeeze juice from peeled lemons into bowl; you should have about 1 cup. Add enough water to make 2 cups; set aside.

2. In saucepan, bring peel and 2 cups of water to rolling boil. Drain. Repeat. Return the drained peel to saucepan, add reserved juice, salt and sugar and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Makes about 3/8 cup.

Procedure for Shrimp Piri Piri

1. In medium saucepan with tight-fitting lid, cook black rice according to package instructions (about 30 minutes) and set aside.

2. In food processor, combine chiles, garlic, cilantro, parsley, lemon juice and 1/8 cup quick-preserved lemon peel and process until mixture is a coarse paste. Add 1/2 cup olive oil in a slow stream and set aside. (Makes 1 cup.)

3. In large bowl, toss shrimp in sauce and allow to marinate, covered and refrigerated, 30 minutes.

4. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in large skillet over high heat until it shimmers, then add marinated shrimp. Toss for 3-4 minutes, until shrimp are opaque, taking care not to overcook. Season with kosher salt.

5. Serve shrimp over black rice, garnished with remaining preserved lemon and a little chopped cilantro.

- Nutrition data per serving: Calories 705; fat 37 g (sat 5 g); carbohydrates 67 g; protein 28 g; fiber 3 g; cholesterol 172 mg; sodium 3,610 mg.

Source: This recipe is an adaptation and combines two recipes from Marcus Samuelsson’s “The Soul of a New Cuisine.” Piri piri is an African dish named for a hot chile pepper. We substitute jalapeños. Black (forbidden) rice is available at selected supermarkets and specialty food stores.

ROASTED CORNISH GAME HENS WITH MEYER LEMONS

Yield: 2 servings

- 2 (1 3/4- to 2-pound) Cornish game hens, washed and dried

- 4 Meyer lemons, divided

- 2 teaspoons kosher salt

- 3 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and sliced thinly crosswise

- 3/4 cup Nicoise olives (see cook’s note)

- 3/4 cup Picholine olives

- 8 garlic cloves, peeled and halved

- 2 tablespoons olive oil Freshly gournd black pepper

Cook’s note: Nicoise and Picholine olives are available at specialty and gourmet markets.

Procedure:

1. About an hour ahead, remove hens from refrigerator and bring to room temperature.

2. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Slice 2 lemons paper thin with knife or mandoline. Using fingers, carefully loosen skin from meat on breast side of hens. Insert 5-6 lemon slices beneath skin of each hen. Put any unused slices and ends of lemons into cavities; rub salt equally over hens.

3. Cut remaining 2 lemons into 8 wedges each and scatter in bottom of shallow baking pan along with fennel, olives and garlic. Place hens atop fruit and vegetables. Pour olive oil over birds, then season with black pepper.

4. Roast hens 30 minutes, then lower heat to 350 degrees and roast for about 20 minutes longer, or until meat is firm, skin is golden and juices run clear (a thermometer placed into the thickest part of the bird will register 165 degrees); the vegetables and fruit will have started to caramelize.

5. Let hens rest 15 minutes, then serve with the roasted lemons, olives and fennel.

- Nutrition data per serving: Calories 1,268; fat 81 g (sat 17 g); carbohydrates 40 g; protein 96 g; fiber 13 g; cholesterol 357 mg; sodium 2,955 mg.