Store-bought pie crust taste test

Members of the Washington Post Food staff and a few other committed colleagues tasted store-bought frozen pie shells and roll-out refrigerated doughs to see whether any brands are worth using in a pinch.

The short answer: They are not.

We baked identical pumpkin pie filling in 16 crusts purchased at Washington D.C.-area grocery stores. No crust scored higher than a 2.3 out of a possible top score of 5. The most common complaints were a lack of flavor and a flabby consistency. The most obvious reason the crusts lack flavor is that most contain no butter.

We were pretty sure nothing could match a from-scratch crust, but we were willing to be surprised. We weren’t.

The two top-ranked crusts were of the roll-out variety. They have the advantage of fitting into your own pie plate for a more homemade look — provided you want to claim any pie with a store-bought crust as your own.

Here are the results, including scores. The crusts were sold unbaked and in reusable aluminum pie plates unless otherwise noted. (Some crusts listed may not be available in the Colorado Springs area):

TOPS (in order)
Giant (roll-out), 2.3
(two 9-inch crusts, 15 ounces total, $2)
Tasters comments: The crust actually has flakes … The taste isn’t buttery, but it tries … Closer to homemade … Saltier than others, but at least flavor.

Wegmans (roll-out), 2.2
(two 9-inch crusts, 15 ounces total, $2.49)
Tasters comments: Biscuit-y crumble on edge, but gummy on bottom … Flaky but bland.

Safeway, 2
(two 9-inch crusts, 15 ounces total, $3.19)
Tasters comments: The rim stayed crisp, but the bottom deteriorated to a thick, unpalatable slab … A little dense, but has more-even flavor than most of the crusts.

Wholly Wholesome regular flour, 2
(two 9-inch crusts, 14 ounces total, $2.99 )
Tasters comments: Floury aftertaste … Has some flavor of butter and salt … A bit chemical … Bland, but decent texture.

MIDDLE OF THE PACK
Pet-Ritz, 1.9
(two 9-inch crusts, 10 ounces total, $2.79)

Giant, 1.8
(two 9-inch crusts, 15 ounces total, $2)

Harris Teeter, 1.8
(two 9-inch crusts, 15 ounces total, $1.97)

Oronoque Orchards, 1.5
(two 9-inch crusts, 16 ounces total, $4.29)

Marie Callenders, 1.4
(two 9-inch crusts, 16 ounces total, $4.29)

NOT RECOMMENDED
Mrs. Smiths, Pillsbury (roll-out), Dufour, Harris Teeter (roll-out), Wholly Wholesome spelt, Wholly Wholesome whole-wheat, Gillians.