NO RUSH Rosh Hashana

The slow cooker is a life-saver for busy families any time of the year, but today, it could be a godsend for Jewish families.

Tonight marks the start of Rosh Hashana, the Jewish new year, but Wednesday is not the most friendly night of the week to prepare a special holiday meal.

Pulling the slow cooker from the back of the cabinet might be just the ticket. It’s great for stews, including cholent, a traditional Jewish holiday dish from in Central Europe.

Recipes for cholent vary, but generally it is made with some kind of meat (brisket, short ribs, chuck roast), beans, potatoes, barley, onions, garlic and other seasonings. The mixture is simmered over low heat for hours.

This is where the slow cooker shines. Put cholent on the menu for tonight’s Rosh Hashana dinner, and all the savvy cook has to do is throw the ingredients into the slow cooker this morning and set it to cook all day.

In fact, the slow cooker is perfect for many typical foods of a Rosh Hashana dinner: brisket, chicken, tzimmes (a stew typically made with carrots, honey and raisins) or any veggie stew.

“A crockpot is used all the time by Jews who . . . don’t want to cook on holidays, perhaps not for the meal on the eve of the holiday but for lunch on the holiday,” says Joan Nathan, an award-winning cookbook author and host of the PBS series “Jewish Cooking in America With Joan Nathan.”

“Cholent is the most typical dish that comes to mind, but any stew would do that follows the dietary laws.”

Susan Schenk, who caters at Temple Shalom, was intrigued with the possibility of using a slow cooker for holiday meals.

“That’s an interesting idea,” she said. “It could work. I usually have chicken or brisket for Rosh Hashana, and either could be done in the crockpot.”

The only hard part about using the slow cooker for Rosh Hashana is figuring out which type to use. If you still have that harvest gold model from the ’70s, that will do, but newer versions have so many great features, it might be time to retire that disco-era appliance.

“I really like the new, larger, oval models,” says Rick Rodgers, the New-York-based cookbook author of “Slow Cooker Ready and Waiting: 160 Sumptuous Meals that Cook Themselves.” “Their size and shape are a huge advantage. You can really feed a holidaysize crowd. You can stack two briskets or two or three cut-up chickens in these big oval pots.”

He’s referring to 6- to 7-quart slow cookers that are programmable and have several temperature settings including “Keep Warm,” to use if you’ll be away more than eight hours.

“A timer, to me, is essential, although some good, cheap machines just have on, off, high, low,” he says.

A removable insert will let you brown foods before they’re slow cooked. At Aspen’s Food & Wine Magazine Classic in June, All-Clad Metalcrafters demonstrated its new Deluxe Slow Cooker, which has a castaluminum nonstick insert. Remove the insert, put it on the stove to brown meat and vegetables, then return it to the main unit for slow cooking.

Rodgers is among its biggest fans.

“When I first wrote ‘Slow Cooker Ready and Waiting,’ I was virtually the only person who talked about the importance of browning meat and vegetables for slow crockery cooking,” he says. “Most recipes were ‘dump stuff in the pot and cook until . . .’ I’m thrilled that some of the top producers now have stove-top-burnersafe insert pots that let people brown their meat.”

Be forewarned: These topof-the-line superpots are pricey. The All-Clad number, sold exclusively at Williams-Sonoma, will set you back $249. But, in addition to the browning feature, it will hold food for up to 26 hours — perfect if you want a meal waiting for you if you’re going to be gone overnight.

It’s just one more way to make cooking for a special Rosh Hashana meal — or any meal — that much easier.

CONTACT THE WRITER: 636-0271 or teresa.farney@gazette.com

BUYING A SLOW COOKER

- Select a model with a glass or plastic lid so you can see the food simmering without raising the cover.

- Select a model with a crockery insert, which holds the food and keeps it from direct contact with the heating elements. When the food is cooked, the crockery bowl holds the heat and keeps food warm.

- Consider a slow cooker with a “stay warm” setting, in addition to the usual Low and High settings. You can also get a programmable option that lets you start food on High; the cooker will automatically reduce the heat to Low after a programmed time. Low setting for most cookers is about 180 degrees; High is about 300 degrees. Most recipes will have you start food on High for about the first hour to make sure it gets hot enough to kill bacteria that can cause foodborne illnesses. One hour of cooking on High is equal to 2 hours on Low.

SOURCE: “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Slow Cooker Cooking,” by Ellen Brown

COOKING CLASS

Learn more about using a slow cooker at a class offered by Colorado State University Cooperative Extension, 305 S. Union Blvd. The class, 10 a.m.- noon Sept. 22 will cover soups, stews and chili. Cost is $10, and preregistra tion is required. Call 636-8920.

POINTERS ON HOW TO USE YOUR SLOW COOKER

Here are some tips for using slow cookers.

- Brown meat and poultry. It takes a few minutes more, but the food will look and taste much better.

- Don’t overdo liquid. There’s not much evaporation of liquids using the slow cooker, so use about 50 percent less than what a regular recipe specifies. The exceptions are soups and sauces.

- Keep it covered. Don’t peek while the cooker is operating. You’ll lose some heat, and it will take longer for the food to get done.

- Cut food into equal sizes. Evenly cut pieces will cook evenly.

- Season liberally. Because of the longer cooking time, the flavor of herbs and spices can diminish. Add fresh herbs during the last 60 minutes of cooking.

- Don’t use dairy at the start. Dairy products can curdle, and aged cheese will become oily during slow cooking. They can be added during the last 60 minutes of cooking. Or use canned condensed or evaporated milk. Substitute processed cheese for aged cheese.

- No frozen ingredients. Frozen food prolongs the cooking process, increasing the possibility of harmful bacteria growth.

- If there’s a power outage of less than two hours, you can safely resume cooking. If the outage is longer than two hours, discard the food to avoid food-borne illnesses.

- Don’t subject the ceramic insert or glass lid to extreme temperatures. They can crack or break.

- Don’t overfill or underfill. The cooker should be at least halfway and no more than two-thirds full.

- Cooking times increase in areas 4,000 feet above sea level and higher. If your slow cooker has an adjustable temperature control, select a setting that will maintain the food at 200 degrees or higher. Use a food thermometer to ensure all food in the slow cooker has reached a safe temperature (at least 160 degrees for meat other than poultry, which should be at 165 degrees.)

Source: “Slow Cookers for Dummies,” by Tom Lacalamita and Glenna Vance and the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension

SLOW COOKER RECIPES

COQ AU VIN

Yield: 5 servings

1 (3-pound) chicken, cut up

2 slices turkey bacon, cooked, drained and chopped

4 shallots, peeled and sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

15 small white boiling onions

10 mushrooms, halved

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup chicken broth or bouillon

1 plum tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

2 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoon cold water

Procedure:

1. Place chicken in slow cooker. Add remaining ingredients except cornstarch and water. Cover and cook on low 8-9 hours.

2. Remove chicken and vegetables with slotted spoon. Discard bay leaf. Turn pot to high. Dissolve cornstarch in water; stir into juices. Cover; cook on high 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour over chicken mixture.

Source: Adapted from “The Crockery Cook” by Mable Hoffman

ROASTED LAMB SHANKS WITH WHITE BEANS AND HERBS

Yield: 4 Servings

3 (1 1/4-pound) lamb shanks, well trimmed of excess fat

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1 carrot, scraped and coarsely chopped

1 vine-ripened tomato, or 2 canned plum tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons Italian seasoning

1/2 cup dry red wine

3 (15-ounce) cans white kidney beans, drained and rinsed

Procedure:

1. Lightly spray 6-quart slow cooker with cooking spray.

2. Season lamb with salt and pepper. Heat olive oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Brown shanks, one at a time, until evenly browned on all sides. Remove to slow cooker.

3. Add onion, garlic, carrot and tomato to skillet and cook 6-8 minutes, or until soft. Add Italian seasoning and red wine and bring to a simmer. Add beans and cook until heated through. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Spoon over lamb shanks.

4. Cover and cook on low 5-6 hours, or until lamb is fork-tender.

Source: “Slow Cookers for Dummies” by Tom Lacalamita and Glenna Vance

COMPANY’S COMING ROAST BEEF WITH BROWNED NEW POTATOES

Yield: 8 Servings

1 large Spanish onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

1/4 cup water or beef broth

1 (3- to 4-pound) boneless rib-eye roast, well trimmed and tied at 2-inch intervals

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 tablespoon each minced garlic and dried thyme

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 pounds very small new or red potatoes, peeled

Procedure:

1. Lightly spray a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker with cooking spray.

2. Layer onion slices on bottom of slow cooker. Add water.

3. Pat meat dry with paper towel. Combine 2 tablespoons olive oil with garlic, thyme, mustard, salt and pepper in small bowl. Rub all over meat.

4. Heat large nonstick skillet over high heat and brown meat evenly on all sides. Remove to slow cooker.

5. Heat remaining oil in skillet. Add potatoes and cook over high heat 5-8 minutes, or until brown. Remove to slow cooker.

6. Cover and cook on low 8-9 hours, or until meat and potatoes are fork-tender.

7. Remove meat and let it rest, covered, 15 minutes before slicing.

Source: “Slow Cookers for Dummies” by Tom Lacalamita and Glenna Vance

CURRIED BEEF CHOLENT

Yield: 6 servings

1 cup small whole onions, peeled

1 cup fresh baby carrots

12 small new potatoes, halved (about 4 cups)

2 pounds boneless steak, cut into 1 1/2 inch pieces and browned

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained

1/2 cup apple juice

4 teaspoons curry powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Procedure:

1. Layer onions, carrots and potatoes in slow cooker. Place beef atop vegetables.

2. In medium bowl, combine tomatoes, apple juice, curry powder, salt and pepper and mix well. Pour mixture over beef.

3. Cover; cook on low 8-10 hours.

Source: www.ou.org/shab bat/recipes/5763/rh63.htm

BEEF BRISKET IN RED WINE SAUCE

Yield: 4-6 servings

1 (2- to 2 1/2-pound) beef brisket

1 (1.2-ounce) package dehydrated brown gravy mix

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon herbes de Provence or 1 teaspoon each dried thyme, dried oregano and dried rosemary

1 cup dry red wine

1/2 cup beef stock

Salt and black pepper to taste

Procedure:

1. Preheat broiler; line broiler pan with foil. Broil brisket 3-5 minutes per side until browned. Set aside.

2. Pour gravy mix into slow cooker; stir in garlic, herbes de Provence, wine and stock. Add brisket to cooker.

3. Cook on low 10-12 hours or on high 5-6 hours, or until meat is tender. Turn brisket over with tongs halfway through cooking. Season with salt and pepper and serve with mashed potatoes or buttered egg noodles.

Source: “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Slow Cooker Cooking” by Ellen Brown