Small wine budget can go far with European options
March 11, 2008 8:56 PM
THE GAZETTE
In my last column, I reviewed good value wines from the Southern Hemisphere. This time, I look to Europe.
Note that typically, when I talk about "good value wines," I'm talking about wines under $20 a bottle. But I've included a few over $20 because the quality for the price is so attractive, they clearly outclass similar wines.
The Rhône Valley, particularly the southern Rhône, has long been a reliable source of great wine values at all price levels.
At lower prices, Côtes du Rhône is the most common appellation. Less common and a little more expensive - but often an even better value - is Côtes du Rhône-Villages.
The Perrin family, makers of the great Chateau Beaucastel Chateuaneuf-du-Pape (various versions of which range from $80 to $350 a bottle), is one of the most famous names in the Rhône Valley. Those of us who can't often, if ever, afford such pricey wine can still enjoy their winemaking skills in their "Perrin et Fils" family of wines.
The Perrin Côtes du Rhône (usually around $10) is a staple at my house, but after tasting the meaty, luscious 2005 Côtes du Rhône-Villages ($15) and the mineral-y, succulent 2006 Côtes du Rhône-Villages "Rasteau L'Andeol" ($23), I'll splurge on the occasional upgrade.
Two other appellations worthy of attention are Côtes du Ventoux, a slightly more northerly and cooler appellation, and Vinsobres, a tiny, virtually unknown appellation nearby. The 2006 La Vielle Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Red ($9) is typically light and easygoing. The 2006 Vinsobres "Le Cornuds" ($19) is a real leap in quality, with impressive complexity and intensity of fruit.
These next two Perrin wines are perfect examples of how value can be available at higher prices. The 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Les Sinards" ($34) is truly excellent - complex with a firm structure for aging. The 2006 Vacqueyras "Les Christins ($28), from a nearby appellation, offers fresh fruit and spicy notes.
When I first got interested in wine in the 1970s, wines from the Languedoc and Rousillon regions in southwestern France were generally referred to derisively as "plonk" and considered ordinary at best. In reality, there have always been good producers there, but in recent years there has been a quality revolution.
Domaine Famille Ligneres, in the Corbieres appellation of the western Languedoc, is a good example. I recently enjoyed the 2003 Le Signal ($18) mostly carignan with grenache, mourvedre and syrah, and the 2003 La Baronne ($11), also mostly carignan but with a significant amount of grenache and a dollop of syrah.
One place in France where we don't expect to find much value-priced wine is Bordeaux. A column in the current Wine Spectator magazine illustrates the seeming absurdity of the quest in a section titled "Bordeaux Bargains." The first two wines listed are $260 and $350 a bottle.
So are there good Bordeaux wines that most of us actually can afford? Thankfully, yes. At $23 each, the 2005 vintage regional wines from Christian Moueix deliver real Bordeaux character without requiring a second mortgage. The Medoc (50 percent cabernet sauvignon) is the most approachable, the St.-Emilion (85 percent merlot) is the driest, and the Pomerol (95 percent merlot) is the most complex.
Italy has many places to look for value. Traditionally, the first destination has been Chianti. Despite periods of quality decline, basic Chianti has always been good to wash down simple foods such as pasta with red sauce.
With the 2005 Chianti ($13) from Castello di Volpaia, a top producer, the value really shows. The next step up, the 2004 Chianti Classico ($28), has outstanding fruit, structure and an earthy complexity. The top-of-the-line 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva ($34) has an even more impressive balance of fruit and complex components. Both should age well for several years.
Finally, how about a dry white table wine from Hungary? I'm not kidding. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company's 2006 Furmint ($14) was a revelation.
I'd only known Hungarian wine for Tokaji Aszu, the legendary dessert wine that's been a favorite of royalty since the 1600s. It turns out that furmint is its dominant grape, and it makes a fine table wine. The 2006 Furmint is fresh and flavorful, showing apple, honey and nut with lively acidity.
Europe has a lot more value wines, and I'll talk about them - specifically those from Germany and Spain - in future columns.
Reach Rich Mauro at 636-0194 or write to him at The Gazette, P.O. Box 1779, Colorado Springs 80901.
Note that typically, when I talk about "good value wines," I'm talking about wines under $20 a bottle. But I've included a few over $20 because the quality for the price is so attractive, they clearly outclass similar wines.
The Rhône Valley, particularly the southern Rhône, has long been a reliable source of great wine values at all price levels.
At lower prices, Côtes du Rhône is the most common appellation. Less common and a little more expensive - but often an even better value - is Côtes du Rhône-Villages.
The Perrin family, makers of the great Chateau Beaucastel Chateuaneuf-du-Pape (various versions of which range from $80 to $350 a bottle), is one of the most famous names in the Rhône Valley. Those of us who can't often, if ever, afford such pricey wine can still enjoy their winemaking skills in their "Perrin et Fils" family of wines.
The Perrin Côtes du Rhône (usually around $10) is a staple at my house, but after tasting the meaty, luscious 2005 Côtes du Rhône-Villages ($15) and the mineral-y, succulent 2006 Côtes du Rhône-Villages "Rasteau L'Andeol" ($23), I'll splurge on the occasional upgrade.
Two other appellations worthy of attention are Côtes du Ventoux, a slightly more northerly and cooler appellation, and Vinsobres, a tiny, virtually unknown appellation nearby. The 2006 La Vielle Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Red ($9) is typically light and easygoing. The 2006 Vinsobres "Le Cornuds" ($19) is a real leap in quality, with impressive complexity and intensity of fruit.
These next two Perrin wines are perfect examples of how value can be available at higher prices. The 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Les Sinards" ($34) is truly excellent - complex with a firm structure for aging. The 2006 Vacqueyras "Les Christins ($28), from a nearby appellation, offers fresh fruit and spicy notes.
When I first got interested in wine in the 1970s, wines from the Languedoc and Rousillon regions in southwestern France were generally referred to derisively as "plonk" and considered ordinary at best. In reality, there have always been good producers there, but in recent years there has been a quality revolution.
Domaine Famille Ligneres, in the Corbieres appellation of the western Languedoc, is a good example. I recently enjoyed the 2003 Le Signal ($18) mostly carignan with grenache, mourvedre and syrah, and the 2003 La Baronne ($11), also mostly carignan but with a significant amount of grenache and a dollop of syrah.
One place in France where we don't expect to find much value-priced wine is Bordeaux. A column in the current Wine Spectator magazine illustrates the seeming absurdity of the quest in a section titled "Bordeaux Bargains." The first two wines listed are $260 and $350 a bottle.
So are there good Bordeaux wines that most of us actually can afford? Thankfully, yes. At $23 each, the 2005 vintage regional wines from Christian Moueix deliver real Bordeaux character without requiring a second mortgage. The Medoc (50 percent cabernet sauvignon) is the most approachable, the St.-Emilion (85 percent merlot) is the driest, and the Pomerol (95 percent merlot) is the most complex.
Italy has many places to look for value. Traditionally, the first destination has been Chianti. Despite periods of quality decline, basic Chianti has always been good to wash down simple foods such as pasta with red sauce.
With the 2005 Chianti ($13) from Castello di Volpaia, a top producer, the value really shows. The next step up, the 2004 Chianti Classico ($28), has outstanding fruit, structure and an earthy complexity. The top-of-the-line 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva ($34) has an even more impressive balance of fruit and complex components. Both should age well for several years.
Finally, how about a dry white table wine from Hungary? I'm not kidding. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company's 2006 Furmint ($14) was a revelation.
I'd only known Hungarian wine for Tokaji Aszu, the legendary dessert wine that's been a favorite of royalty since the 1600s. It turns out that furmint is its dominant grape, and it makes a fine table wine. The 2006 Furmint is fresh and flavorful, showing apple, honey and nut with lively acidity.
Europe has a lot more value wines, and I'll talk about them - specifically those from Germany and Spain - in future columns.
Reach Rich Mauro at 636-0194 or write to him at The Gazette, P.O. Box 1779, Colorado Springs 80901.
