AROUND THE HOUSE: Keep water from leaking through a window well

S.K. has a window well issue: I need to keep water from leaking around the edges. What's the best caulk to put between the well and the house?

You can use any siliconized exterior latex caulking (cheap) or pure rubber silicone (more pricey). If the gap is large, you may want to fill it up with some of that insulating, expanding foam. This material is strong and makes a great gap-filler, but it's not supposed to be exposed to sunlight. So here's the drill: Let it harden overnight, and then shave it with a chisel or knife a quarter inch or so. That will leave a "bed" for your caulking material.

To help keep water from entering the house around a window well, here are some other suggestions. Make sure the bottom soil level of the well is about 6 inches below the lip of the window sill. Then add a layer of small rocks to aid evaporation and to prevent staining from splashing water droplets. Soil around the well should slope away from its lip at no less than 1 inch of fall per foot of distance away (more is better).

If the dirt is too high, you can "raise" the level of the window well by adding some metal landscape edging curved around the top to create an arterial barricade, against which you can add more soil. Finally, make sure downspouts around these wells are routed well away through flex pipe.

Lucy's tub needs a scrub: I have a whirlpool and this gunk keeps coming out. What is it and can I get rid of it?

Gunk's a pretty good word for this stuff. It's body oil, dirt and soap scum which fester under the command of bacteria inside the room temperature environment of the pipes, hoses and pumps. The secret with these tubs is to use them often - at least once or twice a week. That keeps the material from gaining a foothold. For now, if you'd like to get it clean, it's quite simple. Add ¾ cup or so of your favorite dishwashing powder. It's a high phosphate, low sudsing soap that will scour out those hidden recesses. Run the tub jets for 15 minutes or so, then drain. Follow that with a tub of warm water for 10 minutes to rinse.

Marsh has a finicky trash company: How can I get rid of latex paint in a can that is too full to evaporate?

Generally the rules allow you to dispose of (water-based) latex paint cans if there is no liquid inside and you leave the lid off to allow them to inspect it. Most counties have some sort of hazardous waste drop-off facility you could use, but usually you have to make an appointment first.

You could try to soak it up with kitty litter, sawdust, diatomaceous earth or cellulose floor absorbent, like they use in schools and repair garages. If it dries out when combined with one of these absorbers, you're probably OK to seal it in a plastic bag and toss it. But it's a good idea to run this by the trash company before you go to all the trouble to process the paint.

Mike's water is soft enough: The previous owner left an old water softener in the basement which we no longer need. How can I disconnect it?

If you don't need the extra room you would create by removing it, I would just let it be. There should be some sort of water valve set next to it, labeled "in service/out of service." Push the rod in the direction that takes it out of service. Then unplug the softener clock and motor.

If you really want it out of the way, you should be able to locate two couplings that simply unscrew to disconnect the softener from the house pipes.

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Former homebuilder Ken Moon is the owner of Colorado Home Inspectors and a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors. Hear him Saturdays at 9 a.m. on KRDO 1240 AM and 105.5 FM. Reach him at www.aroundthehouse.com.