GO! ROAD TRIP: Destination Albuquerque

ALBUQUERQUE - There was a time not so long ago when Albuquerque, N.M., was just a stop on the way to somewhere else.

Nice lunch spot, but what’s there to do?

In the past decade, though, this 300-year-old city of about a half a million has become a mecca on its own merits — for Spanish, Mexican and Indian history, the outdoors, shopping, food and art. You can see its quirky charm in the architecture, the neon of old Route 66, which cuts through the city, and the cable TV shows that choose to shoot there.

And it’s only a tram ride from Sandia Peak ($6), a train ride from Santa Fe and nearly three beautiful hours from Taos. And did we mention the 19 Indian pueblos within easy driving distance?

Here’s an insider’s guide to seeing the quirky-wonderful of Albuquerque. SLEEP

Casa de Suenos Old Town Country Inn: A lovely compound of 21 adobe-style casitas that feels secluded and yet is in walking distance from Old Town. This building on the National Register of Historic Places includes free breakfast, hot tub suites, fireplaces and courtyard gardens. Rates range from $129 to $189 through summer; 310 Rio Grande Blvd., 1-800-665-7002, casasdesuenos.com.

Hotel Albuquerque: This handsome hotel has a lot to offer: 188 hotel rooms and 20 luxury suites, outdoor pool and Jacuzzi spa, 24-hour front desk and concierge services and more. Within walking distance from Old Town. Rates range from $129 to $169 during summer; 800 Rio Grande Blvd. N.W., 1-505-843-6300, hhandr.com/albuquerque.

La Casita Bed & Breakfast: For personal service, try this 580-square-foot adobe guest house with full kitchen and bath. Amenities include continental breakfast, complimentary bottle of wine and three outdoor seating areas, one with a small pond outside the bedroom window. Minimum two-night stay. Single occupancy rate is $105 a night for two or three nights; 317 16th St., 1-505-242-0173, lacasitabb.com.

The Anadaluz: Located in downtown Albuquerque, a $30 million renovation transformed Conrad Hilton’s first hotel — a Pueblo-style spot opened in 1939 and named La Posada — into a Spanish-inspired, green boutique hotel with 107 guest rooms and all the chic you could ever want. Rates range from $177 to $227 through the summer. 125 Second St. N.W., 1-877-987-9090, hotelandaluz.com.

EAT/DRINK

You will have no problem finding whatever style food you want in Albuquerque. But don’t leave before you have some of its trademark New Mexican fare, which features a chili preparation fruitier than you usually see in Colorado Springs — and often with some heat. After all, the state question is “red or green?” Locals who like both on the plate answer “Christmas” when they’re asked.

Los Cuates: Tasty stalwarts Garcia’s Kitchen and Monroe’s Restaurant are excellent, but they’re not Los Cuates, a quieter rival with homestyle Mexican food and a candy-red salsa that starts sweet and ends hot, hot, hot. Three locations, www.loscuates restaurants.com.

Blake’s Lotaburger: Blake’s, which was founded in Albuquerque in 1952, offers the quintessential fast food experience in New Mexico: green chili cheeseburgers. The angus beef burger isn’t gourmet, but for many in the state, that’s the only burger they order. And don’t wait until you’re driving back to Colorado Springs because it’s a strictly New Mexico chain. Multiple locations in Albuquerque, lotaburger.com..

Frontier Restaurant: Another must-eat restaurant you’ll only find in Albuquerque. Located across from the University of New Mexico campus, you’ll see a lot of students and student wannabes lounging in booths under one of the many portraits of John Wayne. Try the house-made cinnamon buns and flour tortillas. Great for breakfast and late-night snacks. 2400 Central Ave. S.E., 1-505-266-0550, frontierrestaurant.com.

The Artichoke Cafe: If you’re craving a little fine dining, check out this lovely spot. It’s not the fanciest place in town, but it offers a thoughtful and creative menu and one of the most interesting wine lists in town. Do make a dinner reservation because they fill up quickly. 424 Central Ave. S.E., 1-505-243-0200, artichokecafe.com.

DO/SEE

Just about any city has a handful of time-honored tourist spots, the kind of places pictured on postcards. In the Duke City (named for Spanish Viceroy Francisco Fernandez de la Cueva, the Duke of Alburquerque, the first “r” later dropped), they include Old Town (where the city started in 1706); the Tramway to Sandia Peak (sandiapeak.com); the Petroglyph National Monument (more than 24,000 carved Indian images on a 17-mile stretch on the west mesa; nps.gov/petr/); and a nearby host of stunning casinos, including the Sandia Resort & Casino (sandiacasino.com), the Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort & Spa (tamaya.hyatt.com) and Buffalo Thunder Resort & Casino (buffalothunder resort.com).

Nob Hill: On this stylish 15-block stretch of Route 66, you’ll see some of Albuquerque’s famous neon signs, the hippest eateries and shops, but strangely, no hill. Seeing the neon is worth the drive, but while you’re there, have a drink and hear some jazz at Zinc (zincabq.com) or hit Satellite Coffee (satcoffee.com), which has a great cup of Joe and a large flying saucer on the roof.

The KiMo Theatre: Built in 1927, this Pueblo Deco movie house has just about every bell and whistle of the style, including air vents disguised as Navajo rugs, chandeliers shaped like Indian funeral canoes and a daisy chain of Indian symbolism based on designer Carl Boller’s research tour through the state. By the 1960s, though, the KiMo had fallen into disrepair and faced demolition until the city stepped in and shepherded it through a series of major renovations. Stop by for an event, a self-guided tour or make an appointment for one that will take you behind the scenes; 423 Central Ave.
N.W., 1-505-768-3522, www.cabq.gov.

Skip Maisel’s Indian Jewelry: There are a lot of Indian jewelry stores in Albuquerque. A lot. But this one was founded by Skip’s grandfather, Morris, in 1939. During its heyday in the late 1940s and early ’50s, Morris Maisel employed more than 300 craftsmen on the premises. The storefront, which is along Route 66, is the picture of Southwestern kitsch and inside, time stops. You might find Skip in the store and if you do, he can answer just about any question you might have — not only about the jewelry, pottery, rugs and sculpture but about local history; 510 Central Ave. S.W., 1-505-242-6526, skip-maisels.com.