Gazette

World Cup Cuisine

June 16, 2006 12:00 AM

By TOM KARPEL THE GAZETTE

I’m sorry, could you speak up? What’s that — why the deuce are you whispering?

You say you want to know where you can publicly enjoy a World Cup match, a Guinness or Harp and some decent Irish comfort food.

And, ideally, you want to do this without getting beat up afterward by a throng of slobbering pigskin fanatics.

Hmm . . . that’s a tall order for our Broncos-crazy sportsbar scene.

Even in the offseason, the sports channels are full of training camp rumors about some third-stringer’s groin injury. No matter, soccer fans can dribble down to McCabe’s Tavern (formerly The Wayfarer) and check out the action on a big screen and munch on good grub.

McCabe’s is on South Tejon, just north of Southside Johnny’s, a location that makes parking much easier compared with other areas of downtown.

Inside, the space is open and feels large, thanks to a high ceiling and lots of light spilling in from the front windows.

There is a scattering of umbrella-protected tables outside, so you can study the Harley crowd over at Johnny’s. Just don’t let those guys know you’re watching soccer.

Back inside, you can throw some darts, enjoy a mix of high and low tables or hang at the bar.

Some observations: One lady brought her kids in; a group had their dog tied to the railing outside; and despite my best efforts, I’m a lousy dart thrower.

Ordering food off the menu takes considerably less talent, so I’ll stick to that.

Though not strictly dedicated to Irish food (who is?), Mc-Cabe’s nonetheless offers fare often associated with the Emerald Isle.

I will refrain from commenting on a cuisine that seems to elevate corned beef to the category of edible foods.

Anyway, the menu is not very extensive — a good thing for a bar — so order up your favorite brew and check out the Ploughman’s ($7.50).

No, they don’t serve you raw farm implements; it’s an appetizer platter of cheeses, crackers, bread, hummus and little meat cubes of turkey, ham and salami. It’s simple, goes well with any drink and fits the definition of bar food quite nicely.

If you’re looking to impress, you could try the Baked Brie ($7.95), which comes in a flaky pastry shell and mimics appetizers found at fancier digs.

Ours, though, tasted funny — like it spent some intimate time next to somebody’s fish and chips.

Also, the brie inside was simply chopped up whole. If seeing (or eating) the rind bothers you, get something else.

The Shepherd’s Pie ($8.25) goes perfectly with a Guinness. Chunks of lamb and carrot in a not-too-salty stew with mashers up top scores high on the heartiness meter.

You might blanch at ordering this during our current 90-degree hot spell, but you’ll survive.

Just keep yelling at the TV every time Cameroon scores a goal and your temperature will be irrelevant.

The Bangers and Mash ($9.95) is a bit more schizophrenic. The sausage is fine, although bangers typically taste like sweet breakfast sausage to me.

The filling was ground fine enough and was free of annoying hard parts, which is half the battle with sausage. The gravy that tops the dish, though, tasted processed and marred an otherwise decent bar food experience.

Next up we have . . . oh — gotta go.

Sorry, the third quarter is about to start. Or is it the second period? The fourth set? Whatever — the match is afoot.

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McCABE’S

Tom’s take: A place to enjoy the World Cup and the cozy atmosphere of a neighborhood bar. Oh, right — the food’s OK too.

Address: 520 S. Tejon St.

Phone: 633-3300

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. daily

Plastic: Yes

Local checks: No

Liquor service: Full service

Smoking: Everywhere